The Steins Collect

The Steins Collect: Matisse, Picasso, and the Parisian Avant Garde is the title of an exhibit running through September 6 at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. The Steins of the title refer to  Gertrude Stein, her brothers Leo and Michael, and Michael's wife, Sarah. It's an apt title because the Steins certainly did collect—Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Gris, and more, but mostly Picasso and Matisse.

It was actually Gertrude Stein's brother Michael and his wife Sarah who championed and patronized Matisse. His Woman with a Hat, the icon for this exhibit, doesn't seem outrageous to today's museum-goer. The bold colors, the use of non natural, including green, for parts of the face of Madame Matisse (the model) recalls Toulouse-Lautrec and his paintings at the Moulin Rouge. So it may be somewhat of a surprise to us that Matisse's painting might cause an outrage. Luckily, Michael and Sarah weren't outraged. The exhibit includes several small, unfamiliar Matisse paintings and sketches that probably wouldn't be considered masterpieces in their own right, but because they are by Matisse, they are valued. It also includes masterpieces like Girl with Green Eyes, and intimate paintings like the two portraits of Michael and Sarah. These two were the only double portraits Matisse ever painted.

Gertrude's favorite was Picasso. She and her brother Leo even had a falling out over her continued support of the painter—and maybe because of some sibling rivalry as well. Picasso is well-represented in this exhibit, from his painting of Gertrude to his Jeune Garçon au Cheval to his African Mask-influenced Head of a Woman and paintings from his Blue Period to Cubism.

The paintings—and sculpture—would be worth seeing in their own right. In this setting they tell a story of the beginnings of what we now know as modern art. But, just as compelling is the story of the creative Gertrude and her fascinating siblings—and sibling-in-law. It's worth seeing, and if you can't make it to San Francisco or its next stops, Paris or New York, go online and check it out. The exhibit is appropriate for all ages (except for the youngest or easily bored) children. What child doesn't relate to Picasso?

There were three generations in our party when we visited the exhibit. The youngest, age 10, had a sketch book and colored pencils with her. About a quarter of the way through she sat in a corner and started drawing. I thought she'd be inspired by all the colors of Matisse. Instead she moved when the adults in the party did but continued to sketch in the manner of Picasso, garnering comments from the guards and patrons alike, all encouraging her to "keep sketching" or "you go girl."

The exhibit is larger than one might imagine and takes more time to see it all. It's worth remembering that most of these paintings were exhibited on the walls in a private home. Here they are spread out in a brightly lit museum, most of them at eye level. Over time in Paris, the paintings hung from floor to ceiling. Especially in the early days, the rooms were dimly lit. Alice B. Toklas describes the poet Apollinaire—because he was the tallest—climbing a ladder and holding a lantern up in front of a painting so the visitors could see. It must have been quite a place to be—Paris at the birth of modern art. And in some way, this exhibit tells us, we'll always have Paris.

The SF MOMA exhibit is in SF until September 6. Click on the link below to the SF MOMA main page where you can find more information on events and exhibits related to this show. Scroll the page to find links to  Four Saints in Three Acts an opera by Gertrude Stein and Virgil Thompson. The opera will be presented at Yerba Buena Center from August 18 through August 21. Also check out the Contemporary Jewish Museum for Seeing Gertrude Stein: Five Stories.


SF MOMA, JCM, & Yerba Buena are all in the same neighborhood. They can be reached by BART (get off at Montgomery). If you drive, there is parking in a garage near the museum. (Turn right in the alley at the corner just past the museum.) You can also park at the 5th and Mission/Yerba Buena garage. If you think you have parking karma and you find a street parking space, be careful and check all signs. Many of the streets have TowAway zones during peak hours.

The Steins Collect

Seeing Gertrude Stein at the Contemporary Jewish Museum

Fort Collins, Gardnerville, & Genoa

Finally, after almost three months of not being able to get there, I made it to SF MOMA's Gertrude Stein exhibit. Not that the eleven weeks have been devoid of art, food, wandering, et al. I managed to make it to Fort Collins Lincoln Center opening at the formerly Mini, now Magnolia theater. PB&Jam children's theater inaugurated the new space with its production of Jungle Book. And, in a class act gesture, Lincoln Center management asked all the child actors to autograph a first-production-in-the-new-space certificate that would be kept for posterity. Way to support those budding thespians.

Right across the street is Lucile's Creole Cafe. This popular place serves up a dash of New Orleans, even Beignets. Along with the Beignets, we had Eggs Ponchartrain—trout & sauce bearnaise—and Cajun Breakfast—red beans, poached eggs, and hollandaise. Delicious.

Also managed to get to Gardnerville, NV for the annual July 4th Pops Concert in Heritage Park, and then over to Genoa for a late afternoon outdoor concert. The Genoa concert is a big event in the Douglas County-Carson Valley area and attracts musicians from all over—including some from the morning concert in Gardnerville. It attracts hundreds of listeners, too, who come for the music, a silent auction, picnicking in the country, and for the thunderous roar of shots fired from a Civil War cannon to end the 1812 Overture.

Now a historical site, Genoa started out as a trading post on the Overland Emigrant Trail, then became a Mormon settlement. One of the settlers in what was then Utah Territory was assigned to help define the border between California and Nevada—what is now South Lake Tahoe is just over the mountain. He also changed the name from Mormon Station to Genoa. Legend has it, that he named it for Genoa, Italy, the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. But, as more than one person reminded me, remember to pronounce Genoa as juh NO ah, not like the pronunciation for the Italian city.

Well, there it is, a take on the Stein exhibit will have to wait—tomorrow, maybe.