It was actually Gertrude Stein's brother Michael and his wife Sarah who championed and patronized Matisse. His Woman with a Hat, the icon for this exhibit, doesn't seem outrageous to today's museum-goer. The bold colors, the use of non natural, including green, for parts of the face of Madame Matisse (the model) recalls Toulouse-Lautrec and his paintings at the Moulin Rouge. So it may be somewhat of a surprise to us that Matisse's painting might cause an outrage. Luckily, Michael and Sarah weren't outraged. The exhibit includes several small, unfamiliar Matisse paintings and sketches that probably wouldn't be considered masterpieces in their own right, but because they are by Matisse, they are valued. It also includes masterpieces like Girl with Green Eyes, and intimate paintings like the two portraits of Michael and Sarah. These two were the only double portraits Matisse ever painted.
Gertrude's favorite was Picasso. She and her brother Leo even had a falling out over her continued support of the painter—and maybe because of some sibling rivalry as well. Picasso is well-represented in this exhibit, from his painting of Gertrude to his Jeune Garçon au Cheval to his African Mask-influenced Head of a Woman and paintings from his Blue Period to Cubism.
The paintings—and sculpture—would be worth seeing in their own right. In this setting they tell a story of the beginnings of what we now know as modern art. But, just as compelling is the story of the creative Gertrude and her fascinating siblings—and sibling-in-law. It's worth seeing, and if you can't make it to San Francisco or its next stops, Paris or New York, go online and check it out. The exhibit is appropriate for all ages (except for the youngest or easily bored) children. What child doesn't relate to Picasso?
There were three generations in our party when we visited the exhibit. The youngest, age 10, had a sketch book and colored pencils with her. About a quarter of the way through she sat in a corner and started drawing. I thought she'd be inspired by all the colors of Matisse. Instead she moved when the adults in the party did but continued to sketch in the manner of Picasso, garnering comments from the guards and patrons alike, all encouraging her to "keep sketching" or "you go girl."
The exhibit is larger than one might imagine and takes more time to see it all. It's worth remembering that most of these paintings were exhibited on the walls in a private home. Here they are spread out in a brightly lit museum, most of them at eye level. Over time in Paris, the paintings hung from floor to ceiling. Especially in the early days, the rooms were dimly lit. Alice B. Toklas describes the poet Apollinaire—because he was the tallest—climbing a ladder and holding a lantern up in front of a painting so the visitors could see. It must have been quite a place to be—Paris at the birth of modern art. And in some way, this exhibit tells us, we'll always have Paris.
The SF MOMA exhibit is in SF until September 6. Click on the link below to the SF MOMA main page where you can find more information on events and exhibits related to this show. Scroll the page to find links to Four Saints in Three Acts an opera by Gertrude Stein and Virgil Thompson. The opera will be presented at Yerba Buena Center from August 18 through August 21. Also check out the Contemporary Jewish Museum for Seeing Gertrude Stein: Five Stories.
SF MOMA, JCM, & Yerba Buena are all in the same neighborhood. They can be reached by BART (get off at Montgomery). If you drive, there is parking in a garage near the museum. (Turn right in the alley at the corner just past the museum.) You can also park at the 5th and Mission/Yerba Buena garage. If you think you have parking karma and you find a street parking space, be careful and check all signs. Many of the streets have TowAway zones during peak hours.
The Steins Collect
Seeing Gertrude Stein at the Contemporary Jewish Museum
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